This is a collection of my thoughts on being an artisan. For
all that I smiled and said “Thank you!” when customers raved about our ‘art,’ I’ve
never lost track of Thoreau’s definition. Remember him, the fellow who wore his
whiskers under his chin?
The
Artist is he who detects and applies the law from observation of the works of
Genius, whether of man or nature. The Artisan is he who merely applies the rules which others have detected. There has been
no man of pure Genius; as there has been none wholly destitute of Genius.
I added the italics. I didn’t
invent looms, thread or weaving, but I can make all three, and use them. I
appreciate a great American genius has left me not wholly destitute of talent!
Several years ago I had the burning
desire, to quote my grandson, to put a weaving studio back together, and I did.
How satisfying to run the threads through my hands another time, thread up my
trusty, utilitarian, towels, check tension, then sit and mindlessly weave, my
ears tuned to music, books, lectures de jour.
How easily it all came together,
how easily it all flew apart, as you may recall. But in the middle, stacks of
towels. The kitchen towel drawer was topped off, as were children and
friends. And still the stack grew. What
to do, what to do.
In a bit of genius, I sent them on
the wind, into the universe.
One hallmark of the clothing we
wove was folks’ reactions. They first would touch. That’s easy. Then wrap their
arms around jackets. I really was selling “soft”.
Towels would have stood the same
test, but didn’t get it. They’re towels, for crying out loud. They live in a
drawer, and are snatched out to dry dishes, wipe up counter messes, wipe the
baby’s face, wipe the floor, dragged around by a foot. Towels are not sexy.
They’re utilitarian.
Utility! Aha. My towels are the
epitome of utility because they actually absorb moisture. I use ring spun
cotton. That stuff I had to find all over again; sweater
mills are gone, and the thread spun overseas is softened mechanically. Ring spun
is stretched and compacted over and over. It is denser, and its ends are
softened. It’s heavier than other spinning methods. It makes your best tee
shirts. And the best towel.
Years ago I wove towels to experiment
with weaving structure. Lots of open threads in the weave make towels super absorbent.
But, they wear out too fast, or meet untimely ends in the washer or dryer. I
came across and tried “draughts to increase journeyman ability” in old Dover
reprints of fabric structure we barely know the names of these days. Plain,
matt, rib, basket, twill.
Then I found the most clever
structure, put together by the utilitarian genius of Shakers. It’s a plain,
twill, grouped combination. I call it the Shaker Towel. All the action is in
the railroad tracks that run the length. It’s a cord group, held together
enough by the plain weave and twill sections. Then the plain weave, twill
checks take over, and absorb more moisture. Or baby spit or kool aid. It’s just
a damn fine towel.
But, no weaver would make towels to
earn a living. Like everyone else, we set out to earn a fair return for our
labor and material. Who would pay market value of a handwoven towel. They’re a
loss leader, or a give away.
Those days are way behind me. I
again can weave for the pure pleasure of watching the work unfold, the colors
drift down the warp beam, the sunshine outlining the cat in the window. I
cannot weave as fast, and I don’t care. I still can make piles of towels, then
send them to the universe. It makes me happy. May we all live long enough.
Today I hemmed orange and garnet
towels. I took the fabric from the loom, fulled it, cut it, hemmed it. I also
gave some garnet towels to my card playing friends. Denim towels are on the
loom now. See the difference between the woven fabric and the finished towel
that has been fulled? Part of the magic. I think I’ll do purple next.